From the wild, majestic Pyrenees, Spain stretches south across sun-drenched plains working its mysterious magic on anyone who visits. An irrepressible zest for life, creativity and expressiveness characterise the spirit of Spain

From the wild, majestic Pyrenees, Spain stretches south across sun-drenched plains working its mysterious magic on anyone who visits. An irrepressible zest for life, creativity and expressiveness characterise the spirit of Spain and, in particular, its gastronomy.

Led by Ferran Adrià, chef at the world-famous El Bulli restaurant in Catalonia, Spanish cuisine has been on the rise for the last decade. Some have called it a revolution, although evolution is probably a better word as the new Spanish cuisine has certainly not lost touch with its traditions. The impact of this movement is being felt around the globe, not least in the UK, as the growing popularity of Spanish-style eating and drinking and our taste for Iberian produce shows.

And what better way to sample the best of modern Spanish cuisine than with a glass of Campo Viejo rioja? The uncorked spirit is truly alive in Rioja, where Campo Viejo has captured the region's vibrancy with its diverse range of bright, full-flavoured and vividly coloured wines that are perfect for discerning modern palates. 
Here, we introduce three London-based chefs whose creativity and expressiveness are fuelling our passion for modern Spanish gastronomy.

Ben Tish, executive chef, Salt Yard/Dehesa/Opera Tavern

Ben Tish, executive chef of three of London’s top tapas joints, Salt Yard, Dehesa and Opera Tavern. Photograph: Murdo Macleod for the Observer

"The funny thing is I didn't have any experience of Spanish cooking before we opened Salt Yard," admits Ben Tish, executive chef of three of London's top tapas joints, Salt Yard, Dehesa and Opera Tavern. But now he can't get enough of it, as the plaudits continue to roll in, and the venues continue to open.

Opera Tavern is the latest, opening earlier this year in London's Covent Garden. Its signature tapas dishes cleverly fuse Italian and Spanish cuisines, and demand to be washed down with the exciting array of wines on the intelligently chosen list. There are flashes of New York on the menu, too – most notably in the coveted Ibérico-pork-and-foie-gras burger. Spain, though, remains at the core of Ben's inspiration. "I buy any Spanish cookbook I can lay my hands on. I have immersed myself in Spanish cuisine," he says.

Ben travels to the country a few times each year to find new suppliers and try more dishes. "It's always exciting for me. What I love most is their food culture and their eating philosophy. It's completely up my street. The Spanish are all about food and enjoyment." Ben says he is a big fan of the various gastronomic societies that abound in Spain. "They're quite incredible. You might be sitting next to a three Michelin-starred chef. It's all about the food."

His passion for the Ibérico pig knows no bounds. There are too many references to Ibérico meat on his menus to list them all, from the aforementioned burger, to crispy pig's ears, a pig's head terrine and pork marinated on a skewer, combined in a sausage or three, or just plain char-grilled – not forgetting the Ibérico fat used to wrap cod before it is 
pan-fried.

Nieves Barragán Mohacho, executive chef, Barrafina

Nieves Barragan Mohacho Photograph: Pal Hansen for the Observer

Nieves Barragán Mohacho knows only too well our current passion for Spain – she's the executive chef of Barrafina in London's Soho, one of the top tapas bars in the country. Sipping a glass of wine from her well-chosen list, she watches the customers patiently queue at her tiny bar. It only has 23 covers and doesn't take bookings so you need to arrive early to enjoy her take on tapas, from croquetas to chipirones (baby squid), tortilla to morcilla (black pudding).

Nieves opened sister restaurant Fino with proprietors Sam and Eddie Hart back in 2003, then started Barrafina in 2007 – and she hasn't looked back. "I love cooking this kind of food – it's my food," she says. "Great ingredients, cooked simply."

Alongside the plates of pan con tomate and prawn-and-piquillo-pepper tortilla, are salt cod fritters, octopus with capers, and chickpeas with spinach and bacon. You could be in Barcelona. "Actually, I'm from near Bilbao," says Nieves. She grew up in the Basque country, 10 miles along the coast from Bilbao, with her mother shaping her love of food. "My mum was a good cook – I particularly remember the stews, both fish and meat, everything shared. All the Spanish ever do is eat and talk about eating. Food is a big part of who we are.

"Everything in my childhood, and in any Spanish home, was cooked from scratch, which is what I still like to do now. And I love to change the specials every day." Look out for her current favourite, a stew of morcilla, Ibérico pork and dried choricero peppers.

José Pizarro, chef-owner, José

José Pizarro, chef-owner, José. Photograph: Observer

Standing at the bar in José in London's Bermondsey Street, you could be forgiven for thinking you were in Madrid, such is the attention to detail that chef-owner José Pizarro has paid to his tiny tapas bar.

The no-reservations restaurant serves the best-quality ingredients, bought daily from the market and cooked simply. "I grew up on a farm in the countryside in Extremadura," says José. "I'm used to the seasons and cooking with produce that is as fresh as it can be."

José carefully slices a leg of pata negra (literally, black-hoofed pig) that's tantalisingly positioned on the bar. "My style of cooking is very simple; you have to let the ingredients speak for themselves," he says, next frying a piece of hake in butter, which he'll serve with a freshly made aioli sauce and a little pimentón. "My mother used to cook like this," he says, as he finishes razor clams on the plancha with mint and chorizo. "And there's nothing better than a delicious glass of rioja with fresh tapas, such as a smooth glass of Crianza."

José plans to open a second venture later in the autumn, offering a more traditional restaurant set-up just a few doors up the street. Downstairs, sharing plates will be served at communal tables while upstairs a proper sit-down restaurant will offer stews, salads and whole fish. "We know Spanish tapas now in this country, but not so much about Spanish restaurant dishes – I want to change all that," he says.

Wine and food matching

Campo Viejo is a rioja like no other. Since 1959, its dedication to rioja winemaking, along with the most advanced winemaking technology available, has allowed Campo Viejo to create modern twists on traditional methods to deliver more approachable and progressive styles of rioja that satisfy today's discerning modern palates.

Campo Viejo wines are the ideal partners for a range of dishes, whether it is a lively tapas meal with friends or an intimate dinner.

Try Campo Viejo Crianza, an award-winning (2008 vintage) velvety and elegant wine that combines a fruit-rich fragrance with a smooth balanced taste that goes beautifully with gazpacho.

Campo Viejo Gran Reserva, meanwhile, is an award-winning (2003 vintage) smooth wine with lots of character. It balances aromas of vanilla and cinnamon, and has a long and elegant finish that complements traditional tortilla.